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Buttercream lace baby dress with fan stitch skirt

Buttercream lace baby dress crochet pattern: a fitted shell-stitch bodice and fan-stitch skirt with picot straps and spiral roses.

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Buttercream lace baby dress with fan stitch skirt
Buttercream lace baby dress with fan stitch skirt

About This Pattern

There's something about a tiny lace dress that feels like a held breath. This one sits in that soft, hopeful space between practical and precious, with a buttercream bodice that looks almost edible and a lavender trim that keeps it from going too sweet. It's the kind of piece you make slowly, on purpose, for someone small.

Your hands will move between two different rhythms here: the tight, controlled shells across the bodice rows, then the looser, more generous fans opening up as the skirt spreads out. You'll join panels at the sides, work in the round for the first time partway through, and finish with picot bumps along every strap edge. It asks for patience more than speed.

Laid flat on a changing table or hung on a small wooden hanger, this dress reads like a tiny event. The spiral roses catch the eye first, then the eye drifts down to the fan-stitch skirt swaying slightly even when nothing is moving it. It's a dress that photographs well before it's ever worn.

  • Crochet the bodice front and back panels flat, working the small shell stitch pattern row by row.
  • Join the two bodice panels at the side seams so they form one fitted top.
  • Keep working the fan stitch rounds outward until the skirt reaches the length you want.
  • Add the wide straps and edge them with the contrast picot trim at the neckline and strap edges.
  • Work the picot hem edging around the bottom of the skirt to finish the fan-stitch scallops.
  • Crochet two small spiral roses with leaves separately in the contrast and green yarn.
  • Weave in all ends, block the dress gently, and stitch the roses in place at the waist.

On the desk

Yarn

  • Yarn A (Main Color, Buttercream): DK weight (light weight, CYCA #3), approximately 350 yards / 320 meters
  • Yarn B (Contrast Color, Lavender): DK weight (light weight, CYCA #3), approximately 80 yards / 73 meters
  • Small amount of green DK yarn for leaves: approximately 5 to 10 yards

Yarn Suggestions

  • Paintbox Yarns Simply DK in "Buttercup Yellow" and "Violet Purple" for excellent stitch definition
  • Debbie Bliss Baby Cashmerino in "Primrose" and "Lavender" for luxurious softness against baby’s skin
  • Lion Brand Pound of Love in "Butterscotch" and "Lavender" for an economical option

Hook

  • US size E-4 (3.5 mm) crochet hook

Notions

  • Yarn needle for weaving ends
  • Scissors
  • 4 stitch markers
  • Rustproof pins for blocking
  • Measuring tape

Stitch shorthand

Buttercream lace baby dress with fan stitch skirt

Bodice Front Panel

The bodice front is worked as a flat rectangle with the small shell stitch.

Foundation: With MC, chain 50.

  1. Round 1

    (WS): Starting in the 3rd chain from hook (this counts as 1 dc), work 1 dc into the same chain. (Skip 2 chains, work small shell into the next chain) repeat across to last 3 chains. Skip 2 chains. Work 2 dc into the last chain. Turn. (11 shells plus 2 half-shells at each edge)

  2. Round 2(11)

    (RS): Ch 3, turn. Work 1 dc into the ch-1 sp of the first shell. (Work small shell into the ch-1 sp of the next shell) repeat 9 times. Work 1 dc into the ch-1 sp of the last shell. Work 1 dc into the top of the turning chain. Turn. (11 shells)

  3. Round 3(11)

    Ch 3, turn. Work 1 dc into the first dc. (Work small shell into the ch-1 sp of each shell across) 11 times. Work 1 dc into the top of the turning chain. Turn. (11 shells)Rows 4 through 8: Alternate between Row 2 and Row 3 patterns, ending with Row 2. (11 shells maintained throughout)

    Checkpoint: After Row 8, your bodice front panel should measure approximately 8.5 inches wide by 4.5 inches tall.Fasten off MC. Set aside.

Waist Band

  1. Round 1

    Waist Band With RS facing, join MC to the bottom edge of the joined bodice at the right side seam. Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch). Work 1 sc into each foundation chain stitch around the entire bottom opening. Join with sl st to the first sc. (96 sc)

  2. Round 2

    Waist Increase Round Ch 1, do not turn. (Work 2 sc into 1 sc, then 1 sc into each of the next 7 sc) repeat 12 times. Join with sl st to the first sc. (108 sc)

Small Shell (used in bodice)

Work (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) all into the same stitch or chain space. This creates a small shell of 4 double crochet stitches with a chain-1 space at the center. Think of it as a little fan shape.

Leaf

With green yarn, chain 10. Sl st into the 2nd chain from hook. Sc into the next chain. Hdc into the next chain. Dc into the next 3 chains. Hdc into the next chain. Sc into the next chain. Sl st into the last chain. Do not turn. Working back along the opposite side of the starting chain: Sl st into the first ch. Sc into the next ch. Hdc into the next ch. Dc into the next 3 ch. Hdc into the next ch. Sc into the next ch. Sl st into the last ch. Fasten off with a tail for sewing.

Bodice Back Panel

Work the bodice back panel identically to the bodice front panel, Rows 1 through 8.

Fasten off MC. Set aside.

Skirt

The skirt is worked in the round with RS always facing.

  1. Round 1(2)

    Skirt Round 1 (Mesh Foundation): With MC, ch 3 (counts as 1 dc). Sk the next 2 sc. Work (dc, ch 5, dc) into the next sc. Sk the next 2 sc. Work 1 dc into the next sc. Sk the next 2 sc. (Work (dc, ch 5, dc) into the next sc. Sk the next 2 sc. Work 1 dc into the next sc. Sk the next 2 sc.) repeat around. Join with sl st to the top of the beginning ch-3. (12 arches established)

  2. Round 2(12)

    Skirt Round 2 (Fan Round): Sl st across the top of the next dc and into the ch-5 arch space. Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc). Work (ch 1, dc) 4 times into the same ch-5 arch. Ch 2. Work sc into the top of the next dc post. Ch 2. (Work fan of 5 dc with ch-1 between each dc into the next ch-5 arch. Ch 2. Sc into the next dc post. Ch 2.) repeat around. Join with sl st to the top of the beginning ch-3. (12 fans, 12 sc connectors)

  3. Round 3

    Skirt Round 3 (Mesh Round): Ch 4 (counts as dc plus ch 1). Dc into the 2nd dc of the fan below. (Ch 1, dc into the next dc of the same fan) 3 times. Ch 1. Dc into the sc connector. Ch 1. (Dc into the first dc of the next fan. (Ch 1, dc into each subsequent dc of the fan) 4 times. Ch 1. Dc into the sc connector. Ch 1.) repeat around. Join with sl st to the 3rd chain of beginning ch-4.

  4. Round 4(12)

    Skirt Round 4 (Second Fan Round): Sl st into the first ch-1 sp. Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc). Into the same ch-1 sp work (ch 1, dc). Work (ch 1, dc) into each of the next 3 ch-1 sps. Ch 2. Sc into the dc connector. Ch 2. (Work 5-dc fan across the next 4 ch-1 sps. Ch 2. Sc into the dc connector. Ch 2.) repeat around. Join with sl st. (12 fans, 12 sc connectors)

  5. Round 5

    Skirt Round 5 (Expansion Mesh Round): Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch). Sc into the same st. Ch 5. Sk the next 2 ch-1 sps of the fan. Sc into the center ch-1 sp. Ch 5. Sk the remaining 2 ch-1 sps. Sc into the ch-2 sp before the sc connector. Ch 2. Sc into the sc connector. Ch 2. Sc into the ch-2 sp after the sc connector. Ch 5. (Sc into the center ch-1 sp of the next fan. Ch 5. Sc into the ch-2 sp before the next sc connector. Ch 2. Sc into the sc connector. Ch 2. Sc into the ch-2 sp after the sc connector. Ch 5.) repeat around. Join with sl st. (24 ch-5 arches)

  6. Round 6

    Skirt Round 6 (Expanded Fan Round): Sl st into the first ch-5 arch. Ch 3. Work (ch 1, dc) 4 times into the same arch. Ch 2. Sc into the next ch-2 sp. Ch 1. Sc into the sc connector. Ch 1. Sc into the next ch-2 sp. Ch 2. (Work 5-dc fan into the next ch-5 arch. Ch 2. Sc into the ch-2 sp. Ch 1. Sc into the sc connector. Ch 1. Sc into the next ch-2 sp. Ch 2.) repeat around. Join with sl st. (24 fans)Checkpoint: After Round 6, the skirt should measure approximately 3.5 inches from the waist band.

    Skirt Rounds 7 and 8: Continue the mesh and fan pattern as established with 24 fan repeats.Skirt Rounds 9 and 10: Work expansion rounds to create 48 fans for the final round.Final Checkpoint: After Round 10, the skirt should measure approximately 5.5 inches from the waist band.

Straps

Each strap covers 3 shells on the outer edge of each panel.

Right Strap Row 1 (RS): With RS facing, join MC to the top edge of the front panel at the right edge. Ch 3 (counts as dc). Work small shell into the ch-1 sp of the 1st shell. Work small shell into the ch-1 sp of the 2nd shell. Work small shell into the ch-1 sp of the 3rd shell. Work 1 dc into the last dc. Turn. (3 shells)

Right Strap Rows 2 through 5: Continue working in the small shell pattern, maintaining 3 shells per row.

After Row 5, fold the strap to the back panel and join with a slip stitch seam to the corresponding 3-shell section of the back panel.

Repeat for the left strap.

Where it goes

  • A baby shower gift that works as a keepsake photo outfit rather than everyday wear.
  • A christening or naming-day alternative when paired with simple white tights or booties.
  • A nursery display piece, hung on a small hanger near the crib as a decorative touch.
  • A layering piece over a plain onesie for a short portrait session or family visit.

Color ideas

  • Classic Buttercream Yarn A (Buttercream) for the entire bodice and skirt, Yarn B (Lavender) reserved for the strap and neckline picot edging, the hem picot edging, and both spiral roses, with green used only for the leaves.
  • Soft Reverse Swap the main and contrast roles so the bodice and skirt are worked in the lavender-toned yarn while the straps, picot edging, and spiral roses pick up the buttercream yellow, keeping the leaves green.

Care

Hand wash in cool water with a mild wool or baby-safe detergent, since DK fibers like cashmerino blends and acrylic-cotton mixes both do best without agitation.

Lay the dress flat on a towel to dry and use rustproof pins to reshape the fan-stitch skirt scallops and picot edges while damp.

Store folded flat in a drawer rather than on a hanger, so the straps and waist roses keep their shape over time.

Assembly

  1. Step 1 Picot Edging: Neckline and Strap Edging: Join CC to the outer corner of the right strap at the front top. Work (sc, ch 3, sl st into first ch) as a picot into approximately every 2 stitches along flat sections and every stitch at corners. Continue around both straps and the neckline opening. Hem Edging: Join CC to any point on Round 10 of the skirt. Work (sc, picot) into each dc and ch-1 sp of every fan, with 1 sc into each sc connector between fans. Join with sl st and fasten off.
  2. Step 2 Roses and Leaves: Make 2 spiral roses with CC and 2 leaves with green yarn following the special stitch instructions above. Position the roses side by side at the center-left waist, just above where the skirt begins. Tuck the leaves behind the roses so the tips extend outward. Stitch everything securely in place.
  3. Step 3 Blocking: Wet blocking is strongly recommended. Submerge the dress in cool water, gently press out excess moisture, and pin flat to a blocking mat. Open and shape each fan stitch to its maximum width. Allow to dry completely before unpinning.

Easy to get wrong

Losing the shell count across bodice rows

Place a stitch marker in the first and last shell of each row so you can quickly count back to the stated number of shells before turning. This catches a missed or doubled shell before it compounds.

Picking up the wrong loop at the waist join

When you join the Waist Band round, work into each foundation chain stitch along the bottom edge rather than into the row above it. Count your stitches against the pattern's stated total before moving into the increase round.

Between the songs

Listener questions

Original pattern: https://crochetwithmia.com/buttercream-lace-baby-dress-free-crochet-pattern/

About the Author

Marisol QuinteroWho runs Crochet Obsessed, why a stitch count sits at the end of every round, how a pattern gets written here, and the things this site will never do.

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