- LevelIntermediate
- Time1-2 Hours
- Hook3.00 mm
- YarnDK
About This Pattern
This 70's Unusual Granny Square breaks all the boring rules of the classic four-corner block. Instead of the usual clustered corners, it grows from a tidy ch5 ring into a swirling, offset motif built with airy double-crochet groups and open chain-3 spaces. The unexpected placement gives it that unmistakable retro, almost kaleidoscopic look. It's perfect for crocheters who love traditional grannies but crave something with a little more personality — a square that instantly turns heads in a blanket or cushion cover
You'll work this square across 12 rounds using three colors and a 3.00mm hook. The core techniques are gentle but grown-up: forming a ch5 loop, using a ch3 as a standing stitch that counts as a first double crochet, making dc groups into a shared space, and skipping stitches for that signature open, geometric texture. Each round starts with fresh yarn, so you'll practice clean joins and neat color changes. It's an ideal intermediate confidence-builder — expect around one to two relaxed hours per motif
The finished square measures about 5.9 × 5.9 inches, with a satisfying weight and a lovely lattice-like drape thanks to all those open chain spaces. In the classic navy, orange, and white palette it looks like it stepped straight out of a 1970s living room — groovy, warm, and full of character. Stitch a stack of them into a throw, frame one as retro wall art, or gift a coordinating set of coasters. Handmade, nostalgic, and endlessly repeatable, it's the kind of square people ask you to make again
Materials
- Yarn of your choice- 3 colors
- Crochet hook – we are using a 3.00mm hook
- Darning Needle
- Scissors
Crochet Abbreviations
- ch
- chain stitch
- dc
- double crochet
- Sl St
- slip stitch for joining for different round
- hdc
- half double crochet
- tr
- treble
- sc
- single crochet
- FPdc
- front post double crochet
- dec
- decrease
- st
- stitch
- sk
- skip
- BL
- back loop
70’s Unusual Granny Square — Free Retro Crochet Pattern
How to Crochet 70’s Unusual Granny Square
This vibrant granny square features a mesmerizing spiral design that swirls outward from the center, creating a dynamic effect with contrasting stitches.
- Round 1
ch5 and sl st to the first ch, ch3 as a standing st (count as 1dc), make 15dc in the loop, sl st to the top of the first ch3, fasten off.Step by step Step by step: Start with a knot. Make ch5. Sl st to the first ch to form a loop. Make ch3 as a standing st. Make 1 dc in the loop. Make another 14 dc in the loop, sl st to the top of the first ch3, fasten off. Round 1 finished.
- Round 2
Add new yarn, ch3(count as 1dc), ch3, dc in the same st, [skip 1st, dc ch3 dc in the next st] repeat 7 times, sl st to the top of the first ch3, fasten off.Step by step Step by step: Add new color of yarn in any st. Make ch3 as a standing st (count as 1dc), then make another ch3 to serve as the ch-sp. 1dc in the same st. [skip 1st, dc ch3 dc in the next st] repeat 7 times, sl st to the top of the first ch3, fasten off. Round 2 finished.
- Round 3
Add new yarn in any ch-sp, ch2 (count as 1hdc), 3hdc in the same ch-sp, [4hdc in the same ch-sp] repeat 7 times, sl st to the top of the first ch2.Step by step Step by step: Add new color of yarn in any ch-sp. Make ch2 as a standing st (count as 1hdc). hdc in the same ch-sp. Make another 2hdc in the same ch-sp. [4hdc in the same ch-sp] repeat 7 times, sl st to the top of the first ch2. Round 3 finished.
- Round 4
Remove the hook from the blue loop, add new yarn in the same st, ch3 (count as 1dc), ch2, sk 1st, dc, ch2, [sk 1st, dc, ch2] repeat 14 times, sl st to the top of the first ch3, fasten off.
Step by step Step by step: Remove the hook, and slightly enlarge the blue loop to prevent it from slipping off, leave this loop aside for later use. Add a new color of yarn in the same stitch where the blue loop is located. Make ch3 (count as 1dc), then make another ch2 to serve as the ch-sp. Skip 1st, dc in the next st, ch2. [sk 1st, dc, ch2] repeat 14 times, sl st to the top of the first ch3, fasten off. Round 4 finished.
- Round 5
Insert hook into the blue loop, ch3 (count as 1dc), 2dc in the same st, [sk 1st, 3dc in the same st] repeat 15 times, sl st to the top of the first ch3, fasten off.Step by step Step by step: Insert your hook into the blue loop. Work ch3 as a standing st (count as 1dc). dc in the same st. Make another dc in the same st. [sk 1st, 3dc in the same st] repeat 15 times, sl st to the top of the first ch3, fasten off. Round 5 finished.
- Round 6
Add new yarn in the top of the third dc of a 3-dc group, ch1 as a standing st, sc in the same st, sc in the following 2 sts, ch2, [Skip 1 stitch, sc in the following 3 stitches, ch3] repeat 15 times, sl st to the first sc, fasten off.Step by step Step by step: Add new yarn in the top two loops of the third dc of a 3-dc group. Make ch1 as a standing st. sc in the same st. sc in the next 2 sts, then ch2. [Skip 1st, sc in the following 3 sts, ch3] repeat 15 times, sl st to the first sc, fasten off. Round 6 finished.
- Round 7
Add new yarn in ch-sp, ch1 as a standing st, [5 sc in the same ch-sp] repeat 15 times, sl st to the first sc, fasten off.Step by step Step by step: Add new yarn in any ch-sp. ch1 as a standing st. sc in this ch-sp. Make another 4sc in the same ch-sp. [5sc in the same ch-sp] repeat 15 times, sl st to the first sc, fasten off. Round 7 finished.
- Round 8
Add new yarn in the gap between the two 5-sc groups, ch1 as a standing st, sc in the same st, ch1, 7dc in the next gap, ch1, sc in the next gap, [ch1, 7dc in the next gap, ch1, sc in the next gap] repeat 7 times, sl st to the first sc, fasten off.Step by step Step by step: Add new yarn in the gap between the two 5-sc groups. Make ch1 as a standing st. sc in the same st. Make ch1. 7dc in the next gap. Make ch1. sc in the following gap. [ch1, 7dc in the next gap, ch1, sc in the next gap] repeat 7 times, sl st to the first sc, fasten off. Round 8 finished.
- Round 9
Add new yarn in the top of the first dc of 7-dc group, ch1 as a standing st, sc in the same st, sc in the following 6 sts, sc in the top of the fifth sc of the 5-sc group from round 7, sc in the top of the second sc of the next 5-sc group, [sc in the 7 sts of the next 7-dc group, sc in the top of the fifth sc of the 5-sc group, sc in the top of the second sc in the next 5-sc group] repeat 7 times, sl st to the first sc, fasten off.
Step by step Step by step: Add new yarn in the top chain of the first dc of one 7-dc group. Make ch1 as a standing st. sc in the same st. sc in the remaining 6 sts of this 7-dc group. Insert your hook in the fifth sc stitch's top two loops of the 5-sc group from round 7, where the darning needle is placed. Then complete a single crochet. Insert your hook in the second sc's top two loops of the next 5-sc group, where the darning needle is placed. Complete a sc. [sc in the 7 sts of the next 7-dc group, sc in the top chain of the fifth sc of the 5-sc group, sc in the top chain of the second sc of the next 5-sc group] repeat 7 times, sl st to the first sc, fasten off. Round 9 finished.
- Round 10
Back loop only. Add new yarn in the first BL of one petal, ch3 (count as 1dc), dc in the same st, hdc in the next BL, sc in the following 4 BL, 2sc, dc dec, 2sc, sc in the following 4 BL, hdc, 2dc, 2tr, 2tr, [2dc in the next BL, hdc, sc in the following 4 BL, 2sc, dc dec, 2sc, sc in the following 4 BL, hdc, 2dc, 2tr, 2tr] repeat 3 times, sl st to the top of the first ch3.
Step by step Step by step: Back loop only for this round. Insert your hook in the back loop of the first stitch of one petal. Add new yarn. ch3 as a standing st (count as 1dc). dc in the same st. hdc in the next st's BL, sc in the following 4 sts' BL. 2sc in the next st's BL. Make 1 incomplete dc in the next st's BL. Make 1 incomplete dc in the next st's BL. Once you complete 2 incomplete dc, there will be 3 loops on the hook. Yo and pull through these 3 loops to finish a dc dec. 2sc in the next st's BL. sc in each of the following 4 BL. hdc in the next BL, 2dc, 2tr, 2tr. [2dc in the next BL, hdc, sc in the following 4 BL, 2sc, dc dec, 2sc, sc in the following 4 BL, hdc, 2dc, 2tr, 2tr] repeat 3 times, sl st to the top of the first ch3. Round 10 finished.
How to make a dc dec How to make an incomplete dc (for the dc dec): yarn over, insert the hook in the back loop, pull up a loop, and now there will be 3 loops on the hook, yarn over and pull through 2 loops. Make one incomplete dc in the next st's BL, then a second incomplete dc in the following st's BL. Once you have 2 incomplete dc there will be 3 loops on the hook — yarn over and pull through all 3 loops to finish the dc dec.
- Round 11
ch3 as a standing st (count as dc), dc in the next st, hdc, sc in the following 14 sts, hdc, dc in the following 3 sts, 2dc ch 2dc in next st, dc, [dc in the next 2 sts, hdc, sc in the following 14 sts, hdc, dc in the next 3 sts, 2dc ch 2dc, dc] repeat 3 times, sl st to the top of the first ch3, fasten off.Step by step Step by step: Make ch3 as a standing st (count as 1dc). dc in the next st. hdc in the next st, sc in the following 14 sts. hdc in the next st, dc in the following 3 sts. 2dc ch 2dc in next st. dc in the next st. [dc, dc, hdc, sc in the following 14 sts, hdc, dc in the next 3 sts, 2dc ch 2dc, dc] repeat 3 times, sl st to the top of the first ch3, fasten off. Round 11 finished.
- Round 12
Add new yarn in top of the last dc you made in the previous round, ch as a standing st, sc in the same st, sc in the following 21 sts, 1FPdc around the first dc from the 2dc+ch+2dc group, sc in the next st, sc ch2 sc in the corner space, sc in the next st, 1FPdc around the last dc from the 2dc+ch+2dc group, [sc in the next 22 sts, FPdc, sc, sc ch2 sc in the corner space, sc, FPdc] repeat 3 times, sl st to the first sc.
More photos
Important Notes
- 💡 The 3.00mm hook keeps this square firm and gives crisp geometric edges; if your tension runs tight or the block curls, size up to 3.25 or 3.5mm before blocking
- 💡 Because you fasten off and rejoin every round, pre-cut generous tails (at least 6 inches) so you always have enough to weave in neatly with your darning needle
- 💡 Drop a stitch marker into the first ch3 of each new round — with 12 rounds of color changes it's easy to lose your starting point when you pick the square back up
- 💡 Wind small bobbins or center-pull mini-balls of your three colors so they don't tangle as you rotate through navy, orange, and white round after round
- 💡 Weave in ends as you finish each round rather than saving them all for the end — a dozen loose tails at once is a headache, and hidden ends won't peek through the open chain spaces
- 💡 Block the finished square with a gentle steam or a wet-block on a foam mat; pinning it to a true 5.9-inch square opens up the lattice and makes joining multiples for a blanket far easier
- 💡 Gauge / finished size: worked in DK yarn on a 3.00mm hook, the finished 70's unusual granny square measures about 5.9 × 5.9 inches. Make and block a test square before planning a full project so your measurements match
Common Mistakes and Fixes
- Treating the ch3 standing stitch
Remember the ch3 at the start of each round COUNTS as your first double crochet. Skip working a dc into that same base stitch and always slip stitch to the top of that first ch3 to close — this keeps your stitch count honest
- Miscounting the opening ring so round 1
Make sure you ch5 and slip stitch into the very first chain to form the loop, then squeeze the ch3 plus 14 more dc (15 total) into that ring. If it's crowded, gently stretch the loop with your hook rather than skipping stitches
- Losing track
Count your repeats out loud or drop a stitch marker at the start of each round. The pattern repeats a set number of times per round, so if you reach the join and it doesn't line up, unravel to your last marker rather than fudging an extra group
- Carrying yarn between rounds
This pattern intentionally has you add new yarn each round and fasten off. Embrace it — cut, join fresh, and weave in as you go so those crisp color blocks stay clean and the back looks as tidy as the front
- Joining new yarn in a random spot
Pick one consistent point — such as any corner-ish chain space — to join each new color, and add it in the SAME relative position every round. A steady join line reads as intentional and keeps the square symmetrical
- Pulling the chain-3 spaces too tight
Keep your ch3 spaces relaxed and even. If your square is puckering or curling, loosen your chain tension slightly or move up to a 3.5mm hook — the lattice look depends on those little windows staying open
Variations
- The three-color format is basically an invitation to play. The classic navy, orange, and white nails that authentic 70's aesthetic, but a purple background with lime-green swirls and cream accents gives you a funky, almost disco-modern twist. For a calmer, bohemian version, try muted sage green, terracotta, and ecru — gorgeous for neutral home decor. Want it more graphic? Go high-contrast with black, mustard, and off-white. To make each square bigger without redrawing the whole pattern, simply keep repeating the established round pattern past round 12 — every extra round of "dc, ch3, dc, skip" adds roughly half an inch per side, so 14 rounds pushes you toward a 7-inch block for larger afghan panels. For a mini coaster version, stop at round 6 or 7 for a dainty 3-inch motif. Yarn-wise, a smooth DK cotton like Paintbox Cotton DK keeps those geometric edges sharp and gives coasters and placemats structure, while a soft acrylic such as Stylecraft Special DK makes cushion-cover squares cozier and more forgiving. For a luxe throw, a wool-blend DK adds warmth and beautiful stitch definition around the chain spaces. You can also lean seasonal: rust, pumpkin, and cream for autumn, or icy blue, silver-grey, and white for a wintry retro set. However you remix it, keep one color as a consistent "anchor" round to tie a whole blanket of mismatched squares together
- I genuinely can't stop making these squares, and here's why. That very first round — a simple ch5 slip-stitched into a ring, then a ch3 standing stitch and a fan of double crochets tumbling into the loop — feels so quick and rewarding that you're hooked before the color even changes. Then the magic starts: every round you add a brand-new color, and that rhythmic "skip a stitch, dc ch3 dc into the next" sequence builds this offset, spinning pattern that looks far fancier than it actually is. I love how the chain-3 spaces open the whole square up, so it stays light and lacy instead of dense and stiff. Fastening off and rejoining after each round means you always have crisp, deliberate color blocks — no muddy carried yarn. And there's something deeply satisfying about the moment round 12 closes and the full navy-orange-white spiral finally reveals itself. It's tidy enough to be relaxing, unusual enough to keep you curious, and small enough that you'll want to make a whole rainbow pile in one cozy evening
Frequently Asked Questions
How big is one finished 70's unusual granny square?
Worked in DK yarn with a 3.00mm hook, each square finishes at roughly 5.9 × 5.9 inches. Your exact size will vary a little with tension and yarn choice, so block your first square before planning a full blanket
Do I really need three different colors?
Three colors give it that bold, authentic 70's look, but it's totally optional. You can make a tonal version in three shades of one color, or even a single-color square — the swirling construction still shows beautifully through the open chain spaces
Why does the pattern fasten off after every round?
Fastening off and rejoining fresh yarn each round is what gives you those clean, distinct color blocks with no messy carried strands showing through. It's the secret to that crisp, graphic retro finish, so it's worth the extra weaving in
Can I make this square bigger for a blanket panel?
Yes! Just keep repeating the established round pattern of double crochets and ch3 spaces past round 12. Each additional round adds roughly half an inch per side, so you can grow it to whatever size your project needs
What's the best way to join these squares together?
Because the edges have regular chain spaces, they join neatly with a slip-stitch or whip-stitch seam, or you can crochet them together with a contrasting border round. Block each square to the same measurements first for the tidiest, most even results
About the Author
Marisol QuinteroWho runs Crochet Obsessed, why a stitch count sits at the end of every round, how a pattern gets written here, and the things this site will never do.
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